- 7 black steel 1 5/8 8ft finished height fence posts
- 7 caps for posts (installed on posts already)
- 7 no-dig ground sleeves for posts
- 7 locking set screws installed in sleeves (makes posts removable or permanent - patent pending)
- 1 8ft x 100ft roll of Critterfence 800 reinforced bottom black poly fence mesh
- 1 2ft x 100' roll of Critterfence Steel Grid black PVC coated steel chew barrier (selected above)
- 1 driving anvil for post sleeves
- 1 10 inch 120lb breaking strength black fence ties 100pk
- 1 12 inch kinked galvanized ground stakes 30pk
- 1 white warning banners 14pk
- fence instructions
Bottom Wire Choices:
This bottom wire fencing is engineered to exclude animals with sharp teeth or very small animals that could otherwise gain access. Here's what's suggested:
2ft Critterfence Steel Grid 1" square opening size, used to exclude most small animals and rabbits
3ft Critterfence Steel Grid 1" square opening size, same as above but added height for groundhogs/woodchucks, dog containment or coyote exclusion
4ft Critterfence Steel Grid 1" square opening size, same as above but added additional width. This is typically used by customers that want to increase the amount of overlap on the ground from the standard 6" or wish to bury part of the fencing
2, 3 and 4ft tall 1/2" Square Opening Steel Grid: Used for the same applications above only this mesh has a smaller opening size. This metal bottom wire fencing is used to exclude even the smallest animals like moles/voles and large snakes. It's roughly twice as heavy and strong.
2, 3 and 4ft tall 1/4" Square Opening Steel Grid: Used for the same applications above only this mesh has an even smaller opening size. This metal bottom wire fencing is used to exclude even the smallest animals like moles/voles and small snakes. It's roughly twice as heavy and strong as the 1/2x1/2.
Posts are round galvanized inside and out then black powder coated - no-dig sleeves are heavily galvanized inside and out for extreme long life - ground sleeves go into the ground 30", the finished height of the fence posts is the height above ground (for example, 8ft finished height is 8 feet above the ground once the sleeve is in the ground and the post has been installed into the sleeve).
All posts with ground sleeves can be installed permanently or made removable. No dig ground sleeves get driven into the ground with a sledge hammer (available here on our website if needed: sledge hammer), posts then slide inside the sleeve. To remove posts for seasonal protection or to move your fence: 1) cut fence ties holding fence to posts 2) roll up fencing 3) slide post up out of sleeve. To make posts permanent, use the galvanized locking sleeve spikes included with each kit to prevent the post from spinning or coming up out of the post (instructions provided with each kit). Ground sleeve caps to cover ground sleeves when no posts are installed are also available here on our website: ground sleeve caps
For rocky or heavily compacted ground, we suggest using a san angelo digging bar to pilot the hole for sleeves (instructions with kit). They are available here on our website if needed: san angelo digging bar. You can also use a powered drill or hammer drill with our sleeve auger bit found here: sleeve auger
Tensioning & Tensioning Kit Notes:
Tensioning - tensioning the above fence kit is optional. All of our fencing has structure; after unrolling the fence material it will reasonably stand up on it's own. With the proper post spacing allocated in each kit the fence material won't sag. Other fencing types (we do not sell any of this material!) are similar to soccer netting or flat strand fencing, where unless you pull the material up it will fall back down. If you decide to add a tension cable, here's what we suggest:
Use the tension kit upgrade option in the kit drop down menu above. We will ship you the right amount of post cable collars, tension cable and Gripple tensioning connectors for the kit you're ordering. This includes enough cable and hardware to do two cable positions. This is usually at the top and either 1) where the bottom wire meets the top fencing [if applicable] 2) at 30" for additional support against animals running into the fence or 3) 6" from the ground to help prevent animals from pushing up under your fence.
As a general rule, choose steel cable if you are suspending your fence only from the posts in your kit and choose monofilament cable if you're going to use a mix of posts and trees. Trees will grow and also move when there's wind; monofilament cable will stretch.
What's not included:
Corners and ends (suggested for right angles) which brace against the tension put on the fence, found here: corners and ends2 1/2 collars for corners and ends, need two for each corner or end purchased, found here: 2 1/2 post collarsA hogringer hand tool (optional but faster) to connect each strand of cable to your fencing. A 11/16 ringer with 1000 rings is found here: 11/16 hogringer or a faster 9/16 commercial grade ringer found here: 9/16 ringer - this ringer also supports the use of stainless steel hogringsFor large projects, a Gripple tensioning tool. Allows for highest possible tension. Corners and ends must also be used. The tool is found here: Gripple Tensioning Tool
Weight listed is approximate and varies based on selected options